Basic Men’s Grooming Training part I
We thought that we should run some basic training on some of the products that men use. It can be quite over-whelming seeing all the products and it’s not always the easiest question to ask: “What do I use that for?”
We’ll start with something that is quite common for men – shaving cream or gel
Product: Shaving Cream or Shaving Gel
Purpose: Softens beard hair so that it is easier to cut. Creates a glide surface for the razor blade, greatly reducing the likelihood of razor burn and post-shave blemishes caused by ingrown hairs and razor bumps.
Selection: Shave gels for very oily skin. Most shave creams and shave gels are appropriate for all skin types.
Application: Mix with tepid water. Use the tips of your fingers or a shave brush (with products that are specifically designed for brush use) to lather directly onto the beard area. Wait 30-60 seconds and then shave. Rinse with cool water.
Frequency: Once in the morning, or as needed.
Order: Shave after cleansing and before toning. The best time to shave is in or immediately after a shower.
Exceptions: Not required, if you use an electric razor or grow a beard.
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Shaving tips
It is best to shave after you get out of the shower (or even while you’re still in there). There are many fog proof mirrors on the market.
Make sure the razor is clean. If you have a manual blade, change the blade often. A pivoting head razor is a bit more forgiving to your curves and bumps and good if you have a tendency to doze in and out while shaving early in the morning. As for single bladed razors, they are less irritating than double bladed ones. The double bladed razors give a closer shave, but that often means really close as in SKIN, too.
Prepare the skin by washing with warm water and a no scent, no dye, glycerin soap like our Proraso soap. It will leave an invisible film to help your razor glide on your face.
Lather with firm but gentle pressure, moving the the lather AGAINST the grain or against the direction of your hair growth. This is sort of coaxing the hairs to get up off the surface of your face. Rinse with cooler water.
Next, especially if you have a tough beard, soak a facecloth in very warm water and place the cloth directly on your face, covering your beard. Sit down, relax, think about your day in a peaceful manner. Leave it there for at least a few minutes. This moist heat will soften your whiskers and your skin, and reduce or eliminate razor burn.
Fill your sink with very warm (again, not hot) water and lather if you use a manual razor.
Using either a shaving brushes or your fingertips, work shaving cream, foam or gel or even a glycerin soap lather into your skin with a circular manner and spread it evenly over all your hairs.
HINT: While it seems like going against the grain gives you a closer shave, it’s really doing your face and beard an injustice. The hair grows back thicker and tougher. Shave with the grain and in a few weeks, once your beard is “trained” you will get a closer, smoother
shave.
Dip your razor into the sink of hot water, and make a short sweep down a side of your face WITH the grain. After every few sweeps, dip the razor until you’ve removed all the hair. A good order to go in: sideburn, upper cheek of one side, jawbone, neck area, other sideburn and upper cheek, lower jaw and chin and lastly the upper lip.
After each sweep, lift the razor away from your skin and place down again when ready to shave. In other words, avoid dragging the razor across your face. Sounds dumb, but you know you do it, it’s early, you’re tired. This will reduce those nicks and cuts.
HINT: pull your skin taut with your free hand and then shave over the area that is pulled tight. This also makes the whiskers pull away from your skin, making it easier for the razor to grasp them.
The Dry Shave
After soaking your beard, dry it completely. Dust with cornstarch or powder. Your skin needs to be completely dry before taking the electric razor to it. Pick a spot near the hinge of your jaw and go AGAINST the direction of your hair growth (up). If your shaver has the three rotating blades, you can move in a circular movement, if it is a straight blade, long repetitive strokes work best.
Finally rinse the face with warm water water (neither hot nor cold) by patting the skin. Do not, wipe. That will irritate your freshly shaved face.
Meanwhile the neither too hot nor too cold water will close those pores. Feel around for any stray hairs you may have missed. And pat your face dry with a clean, dry towel. Rinse your equipment.
Lastly, moisturise. Avoid scented lotions, they tend to burn worse. Some men like alcohol based after shave which has an antiseptic quality. Avoid them as they tend to dry your skin out.
Ever wonder why it appears that men age more slowly than women? Some say the reason men age so gracefully is that shaving actually exfoliates your skin. So in a sense the daily task of shaving can be your fountain of youth.
Men’s skincare tips
While many men seem to have the idea that skin care is for women, it is important that men take good care of their skin as well. There are some men who do like to take care of themselves, and believe it or not, often these are the men that the women are drawn to.
It is definitely not feminine to take good care of your skin; in fact, it is a very sensible undertaking. Many women are going to be taking a close look at your skin, so you want to be sure that you can give them a great first impression.
So, what can you do to start improving your skin? Well, there are a variety of great ways that you can work on making you skin healthier and more attractive.
The following are some great ways that you can keep your skin looking great:
Tip #1 – Clean Your Face – One of the most important things you can do to improve your skin is to keep it clean. This is a very simple tip; however, it is one that many men tend to forget. When you keep your skin, it looks much healthier and more vibrant as well. Just taking the time to wash your skin twice a day can go a long way towards keeping your skin looking clean and clear.
Tip #2 – Learn About Your Skin Type – Yes, you have a skin type. If you want to take good care of your skin, you need to know what it is. You can have normal skin, oily skin, dry skin, or a skin that is a combination. There are many products designed for oily, dry, and normal skin; however, it can be a bit more difficult to find products for combination skin. Remember, if you use the wrong skin care products, you can make your skin look worse, so be sure to find out what skin type you are.
Tip #3 – Shave Carefully – It is important that you always shave carefully. You want to avoid getting a shaving rash or any cuts on your face. If you are in a hurry it is easy to make a mistake, so use some products to help you get a great shave and take the time to do it right. You may want to purchase a good shaving foam or gel that will provide you with a smooth shave, and after you are done use an aftershave that will keep the skin smooth and help avoid any rashes.
Tip #4 – Use a Toner – While you want to keep your face clean, it is also important to tone your face as well. Using a toner on your face will firm up your skin and it can also reduce the size of your pores too. Do this every day and your skin will begin to look much healthier.
Tip #5 – Always Moisturize Your Face – It is very important that you keep your face moisturized, which will keep your skin health and soft as well. Never forget this part of your facial skin care routine.
Keep razors sharp with mineral oil
Unless we choose to go hairy, most of us – men especially – can’t escape shaving as a necessary evil. And the razor industry knows all about it, so they always give us something new to “need” with constant one-upmanship. I mean, really; who truly needs a razor with five blades, various strips of rubber and moisturizers, and batteries that make it vibrate no less?
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Know your skin type
Skin is the body’s largest organ and one that adapts rapidly to the changing environment. It is essential that you know your skin type before you purchase skin products.
Men are not as well trained in skin types as what women are, so here is a little info that might help you out:
Normal skin
Never too oily or too dry, normal skin rarely gets pimples. It has even tone, is moderately thick, smooth and firm with excellent elasticity and moisture. It has smaller pores.
For normal skin, a daily routine of cleanse-tone-moisturise for the face is perfect.
Oily skin
Generally thicker and firmer than normal skin, oily skin is less sensitive to chemicals, detergents and perfumes. Pores are medium to large and can get clogged up causing blackheads and pimples.
Avoid cheap soaps. Use a facial scrub every other day. Use oil-free face lotions and oil-free cleansing gel on your body. Use an astringent aftershave instead of shaving balm and steer clear of all-over body moisturisers.
Dry skin
Dry skin is usually thin, dull, easily irritated and rough to the touch. It is usually a sign of skin not getting the proper treatment.
Treat as you would normal skin and if no improvement is seen, make an appointment with a dermatologist.
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin reacts to sun, wind, temperature, cheap shaving creams, fragrances, perfumed soaps and alcohol based deodorants. It burns easily in the sun and always seems to sting or itch.
Use 100% natural skin care products or hypoallergenic products. Be very careful about what you choose.
Try shaving gel instead of creams. Follow up with an organic aftershave. Try organic soap or 100% natural soap instead of fragrant soaps. For your hands and body, again try organic or natural products but always remember that if your face or body shows any signs of allergy or redness, stop using the products immediately.
Problem skin
If the pores on your skin are large and you suffer from acne, blackheads or excessive pimples, you should consult a dermatologist.
They can prescribe medication which can help with this.
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Grooming Tips – Optional daily grooming
Pre-shave Oil / Electric Razor Pre-shave
Purpose: Pre-shave oil softens coarse beard hair so that it is easier to cut. Electric razor pre-shave creates a glide surface for the rotating blades, greatly reducing the likelihood of post-shave irritation.
Selection: Most pre-shave oils and electric razor pre-shaves are appropriate for all skin types.
Application: Massage a dime-sized amount into your beard. Wait 30-60 seconds. Shave with your electric razor, or apply shave cream or shave gel directly atop the shave oil and then shave with your safety razor.
Frequency: Once in the morning.
Order: After cleansing and before shaving.
Exceptions: Not required, if you have a light beard or do not experience problems with post-shave irritation.
Post-shave Spot Treatment
Purpose: Eliminates ingrown hair and razor bumps.
Selection: Most post-shave spot treatments are appropriate for all skin types.
Application: Apply directly atop the affected area and let dry.
Frequency: Once in the morning, or as needed.
Order: After shaving and toning, and before after-shave/moisturizer.
Exceptions: Not required, if you do not experience problems with ingrown hair or razor bumps.
View All Post-shave Treatments
Eye Cream / Eye Gel
Purpose: Reduces the appearance of fine lines around the eyes. Reduces swollen tissue (“puffiness”) caused by fatigue, rubbing, or allergies. Reduces dark circles caused by fatigue or allergies.
Selection: Eye cream for fine lines. Eye gel for puffiness and dark circles.
Application: Apply small dabs to the tips of your fingers and gently massage into skin.
Frequency: As needed.
Order: After cleansing and toning.
Exceptions: None.
View All Eye Creams and Gels
Also See The Daily Grooming Guide Part I and Part II
